Topic: Area over the cab of a Wonder (Read 11436 times) previous topic - next topic

First, let me say that I wished all owners would come here for how-tos and discussions on upgrades, etc.  Would be lots better than the facebook setup.

Now for my question.  How do you remove the angled board above the cab on the wonder in order to add some insulation.  Also, the board itself has "play" such that it makes some noise.  I've insulated the doors with Noico sound deadening material and have some left over.  It is sort of like a stiffener and I believe a couple pieces on the back of that large board would help.

Did the door insulation help? How hard to do?  Where did you get the Thinsulate?
Not sure what board you are referring to, will have to look at rv.

No picture to post but the board I'm referring to is the wood panel that is angled approx. 45 degrees above the cab.  In my Wonder, when in the coach looking at the cab, there are 2 wide shelves with a cloth covered front and the angled board is the back of those shelves.  It runs almost the full width of the coach. I assume there isn't any insulation behind this.  I'd like to add some and also add some of the Noico to strengthen the board to prevent vibrations.

Here is an idea.  The board can be seen at 7:40 in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vKCioNja2IQ

It isn't difficult to do the doors.  It takes time and it does help a lot.  The radio no longer competes with the noise.  Also conversation is easier.  Be aware that afterwards, it won't be like a luxury car but I and my wife think it was well worth it. Note she didn't do any of the work  

I used Noico as it is less expensive than what is considered the #1 product which is Dynamat Extreme.

Here is the Noico install video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IabK75hFZAY

They say to clean everything with white spirits (which is mineral spirits). I WOULD not use mineral spirits as it leaves an oily residue.  I used 90% isopropyl alcohol from Walmart.  In the section with first aid supplies.

You'll need some plastic panel tools so you don't damage the plastic pieces that cover the screws that hold the panel to the door, and a socket (forgot the size) and I think a T20 torx.  You'll also need a roller. 

I already had a set of panel removal tools but here is a similar set:
Amazon.com: 4 pcs Interior Car Dashboard Door Panel Molding Clip Trim Open...

I didn't get the Noico roller, I got this set:
Amazon.com: Car Sound Deadening Hand Roller Sound Noise Insulation Tool 3PCS...

The different sizes came in very useful.

Here is the Noico material to install first.  I covered everything inside the door.  Some people only cover up to 25% but I wanted the full effect.
Amazon.com: Noico 80 mil 36 sqft car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive...
You must roll this down well.  The bubbles on the foil backing indicate where you have rolled.  It is important because as I understand it, if not adhered to the door and air gaps are left, then condensation can form thus potentially causing rust.

This Noico product is what I used to cover the first Noico product:
Amazon.com: Noico Green 170 mil 36 sqft Сar Waterproof Sound Insulation,...

I got the Thinsulate on Ebay (bought 10 linear feet):
3M Thinsulate (TM) AU4002-5 AcousticThermal Automotive Insulation Double...

Hein (Ebay seller) claims the thisulate is all you need but I think the Noico product added significantly to the sound dampening.

Here is where the screws are on the door. I think 1 is mislabelled as to the screw type behind it.
Ford Transit USA Forum

Here is how to remove the panel:
Ford Transit front door panel removal - YouTube

Here is how to add the Thinsulate:
Installing Thinsulate on the back of a Ford Transit door panel - YouTube

The doors have a clear plastic covering which keeps water inside the door so it will drain out the bottom of the door.  I carefully removed this and reinstalled it using the original sticky stuff.  Just be careful pulling it off and you can get most of the black sticky material to stay with the clear plastic.

I have quite a bit of all 3 product left.  I hope to do the cab floor eventually but will need help with the seats and it appears that some of the factory carpet goes up under the dash.  Some of the dash may have to be dismantled to insulate properly.  And I don't think I have enough material left to do the entire floor.

The screw cover behind the door handle is a little difficult to remove.  And the red reflector while not difficult takes care to remove.  You need to lightly pry the back side (if doing passenger door, use the tool to gently pry the rear of the reflector toward the drivers side and use a small screwdriver or another panel tool to push the reflector towards the rear of the RV).  If you just push toward the rear, you'll break the lock tabs and if you just pry, you can break the reflector.

Any questions just ask.

Thank you for the detailed instructions, now to find the time.
The video I saw did not use Noico jjust Thinsulate,  without any gluing, using both naturally better.
No idea how to remove that angled board, try to guess the sequence for installation!
Another area that I am sure is hollow are the vertical white boards directly behind each seat. Very thin and mine were warped, picture would not hang flat!

How do you post pictures here?

I will say the second door is faster to do.  i did not make cardboard templates.  I measured length, width & height for a piece (quite a few are not square or rectangle), transferred the measurements to a piece of Noico and used a yardstick to aid in the straight cuts.  I did use a large piece of cardboard on the ground for backing for the cuts.  Also, you need to be aware that you could cut a large piece the width of the door or at least as wide as the Noico sheet but when you test fit you might see that it will be difficult to insert behind the cross members of the inner skin once you remove the adhesive backing.  One or 2 pieces I cut in half after test fitting because while working with the wider/larger piece it would stick to the door before you get it properly positioned.  I also cut my first piece backwards (swapped left and right measurements and cut the angle wrong) but I saved it and use it on the other door as it is a mirror image.

Yes, the video was Hein's (who is the ebay seller).  The Noico install was the 1st you tube I attached above.  Hein says that thinsulate is the only product needed - he doesn't sell Noico or any similar product.  I just don't think it or anything else is the single do all product for insulating for heat/cool/sound.  Once the Noico is added to the door skin, when you tap on the outside of the door you can tell a big difference in the sound.  It isn't as tinny and length of sound made is shorter. Meaning the vibration is shorter.

I just looked at a review of the 2019 Wonder FTB.  I see the vertical while boards you refer to.  My MB doesn't have those.  It has a closet behind the passenger and "cubbies" behind the driver.  But I bet there isn't much if any insulation behind either.

If you click Preview when you are in the posting frame, it will take you to a more advanced page.  At the bottom of the post frame on that page there is an "Add files by dragging & dropping or selecting them" area.  I tried dropping and also selecting a 110 KB image and got an error stating there was a problem and your attachments could not be uploaded.  It says max size of 49,152 KB so it should have uploaded. 

To insert a link to an image on a hosting website, there is a button (fourth from the right on the second row of buttons) on the preview page that brings up a prompt to enter the URL.

I have never tried the “preview” will do next time.
I looked at my front angle piece, to me it looks like the side supports have to come before you can get at the angle piece.
Faster to drill a hole in the roof and blow in insulation!!!

I posted in the "Around the Campfire" section below and was told the posting of images is now fixed.
Eere is the conversation:
Inserting photos & files

And here is a test of dragging and dropping.

Thank you, will try
So what do you have for HDTV?
I have a Winguard Traveler with a Hopper!

All we currently have is the built-in antenna. 

Not sure we will ever get satellite for the RV.  Have DirecTV at home and no box to take on the road.  Our receiver records all our shows and sends to dumb boxes (no tuner) to connect to TV.  Have to have our shows so it has to stay home.  Another receiver and monthly expense along with the RV satellite cost isn't what we want to spend right now.

We need to enjoy what we have currently and decide on the next upgrade if any.

At home, we have a theater room with projector and 120 inch screen.  Love watching TV in the evenings. 

We take the Hopper from the house, no extra receiver cost.
Any recorded at home we take with us, and record new shows as we travel.  Very seldom are we in a spot we’re the satellite won’t come in.  If not we watch over the air.

Thanks for this excellent write up. I did a similar upgrade to my Airstream Interstate Class B that I sold and plan on doing the same for the 2019 Wonder RTB after I take delivery this fall.